Astromech Madness

All Dome Panels Extracted

2008-09-02T12:38:00.001-05:00

All Dome Panels Extracted

2008-09-02T12:37:00.001-05:00

More Dremel Tool Work

2008-08-26T19:18:00.005-05:00

Next, I used a diamond cutting disc in my Dremel tool to cut through the holes I drilled earlier. The drilled holes help alot with guiding my disc and helped me keep the Dremel steady so it did not not run off on me. Once this is done, you should have four "pie panels" and you should be able to CAREFULLY bend each panel back and forth until they release from the dome.

Here is a photo of the "pie pieces" being pushed out.

Here is a picture of the hole after the cut panels have been removed

Drilling With My Dremel

2008-08-26T18:54:00.003-05:00

In this step, I took my Dremel tool and a drill bit and drilled small holes around the perimeter of each area to be cut out. You must be steady in this procedure so that you do not drill outside the lines or allow the drill to run off along your expensive dome...OUCH!

For the circular panels, I also drilled holes in a "X" pattern through the area. See picture below.

A Photo of the Inner Dome After Removing the Outer Dome

2008-08-26T18:52:00.002-05:00

Cutting the Inner Dome

2008-08-26T18:11:00.005-05:00

To prepare the dome properly, you first need to determine which electronics you want to install. The main electronics that need to be installed on a simple R2 unit is the logic display lights (front and rear), the three holoprojectors (one on each front, back and top), the PSI lights (front and back) and the mood light which is located on the left side of the dome. These are the only electronics in which I am installing. Veteran and Master builders can install way more sophisticated electronics such as opening pie panels, body panels, etc...etc... Check out some of the direct links on the home page to check other builder's progress and ideas.

First, I had a fellow builder named Glenn Pipe help me place the outer dome perfectly on center of the inner dome, we then added painter's tape to hold it in place. Then, we took a fine tipped Sharpie permanant marker and "stenciled" in all the dome panels onto the solid inner dome before removing the tape and outer dome.

Side Vents

2008-08-24T14:02:00.003-05:00

I decided to make my own side vents for R2 from scratch. I used the tutorial in Astromech.net's files to make it. Although I am a rookie builder, I don't believe that this is too terrible of a job. In fact, I'm quite pleased with the outcome. This is a photo of the side vent after I finished building it. One down...One to go...

This is the side vent after I painted it.

Reese and R2

2008-08-24T14:00:00.003-05:00

Helping Hands

2008-08-24T13:58:00.001-05:00

Helping Hands

2008-08-24T13:55:00.001-05:00

The Reason Why I am Building R2-D2

2008-08-14T14:18:00.002-05:00

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The Reason Why I am Building R2-D2

2008-08-14T14:16:00.002-05:00

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The Reason Why I am Building R2-D2

2008-08-14T14:12:00.002-05:00

Last night my three year old son, Jaden, found out that I had R2's dome. I put it on top of the body and spun it for him. He basically preformed a back flip out of joy and then I was able to snap this photo.

Dome Spinning Unit

2008-08-14T12:52:00.002-05:00

This is what I call "The Dome Spinning Unit" after holes have been drilled and all parts have been mounted together.

This unit, as mentioned earlier in our blog, consists of the 17 1/2" lazy susan bearring, the big plastic gear and the dome base plate.

The other photo is the entire set up installed in the dome.

My Dome Spinning Unit Completed and Installed

2008-08-14T12:48:00.002-05:00

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My Dome Spinning Unit Complete

2008-08-14T12:44:00.002-05:00

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The Dome After Panels Have Been Removed

2008-08-13T13:15:00.002-05:00

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Dome Panels

2008-08-13T13:13:00.002-05:00

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Dome Panels

2008-08-13T13:04:00.002-05:00

This is a pic of my dome and panels after working on it for about an hour. I used a Dremel tool with a diamond cutting disc and cut out the panels.

Then, I laid out the panels in a certain way so that I could remember later on how they go back in. I then used a sanding wheel in the Dremel tool to remove any slag and roughness on the outer dome. Once finished, the outer dome slid perfectly in place over the inner dome.

This is the final product.

Aluminum Octagon Ports

2008-08-13T11:25:00.005-05:00

These are the Aluminum Octagon Ports that I ordered, they will be placed in the octagon holes near the bottom of R2 on the front and back.

Aluminum Octagon Ports

2008-08-13T11:25:00.004-05:00

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R2-D2's Dome

2008-08-13T11:22:00.005-05:00

I recieved my dome in the mail yesterday. Here is a couple of pics.

R2-D2's Dome

2008-08-13T11:22:00.004-05:00

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R2-D2's Dome

2008-08-13T11:20:00.002-05:00

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R2 Builders Dominate RBNO as Domes Arrive in Mass Numbers

2008-08-12T19:48:00.002-05:00

R2 Builders(From left to right): Doug Emes, Glenn Pipe and Gary Stover

R2's Ankles

2008-08-06T07:35:00.002-05:00

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Torso Doors and Hinges

2008-07-22T21:45:00.004-05:00

Here are the finished doors for R2's torso. In between the doors are the hinges we plan to use to attach the doors with.
Here is a closer look at the hinges for the torso doors.

Work Area

2008-07-22T21:38:00.005-05:00

Here are a few pics of our somewhat disorganized and somewhat cluttered work area.

Bondo (Body Filler)

2008-07-22T21:00:00.006-05:00

While working with the spackle that we were applying to the legs, we noticed that the spackle began to crack, peel and bubble up. Because of this unfortunate mishap, we decided it was no longer safe to use spackle, seeing as how the legs would have to support all the weight of the body and dome later. So, since we have the A&A frame and legs, we finally decided to contact the guy who makes the A&A products, Andy Schwartz. He recomended that we use Bondo.

So we started the long boring process of stripping off all of the spackle from the legs. Then we will need to sand off the remaining spackle, clean off the dust from sanding and start from scratch with the Bondo. Please disreguard all earlier posts about spackle and substitute all spackle instructions with Bondo.

WE APOLOGIZE FOR ANY MISLEADING INFORMATION. This is, after all, our first build and it is somewhat of a "Trial and Error" experiment for us at times.

Posted by Tristen Plemons

Progress on the Center Leg

2008-07-22T20:37:00.004-05:00

Here I have used a countersinking bit and a drill. I have countersunk all holes on the center leg and ankle and have inserted several flathead screws to hold the leg and ankle together. This is the side view of the leg and ankle. Both sides are done exactly the same way.

Underneath the center leg

Krider Blue

2008-07-22T20:21:00.006-05:00

We decided to use the tutorial for the blue that Kelly Krider created. It is now known as Krider Blue. If anyone may be interested in using this color, the tutorial can be found on Astromech.net's tutorial files.

The Finished Coin Slots

The Finished Large Data Port

Here is a few pics of parts we painted Krider Blue.

The Body with Finished Coin Slots, Large Data Port and Utility Arms

Main Doors on R2's Body

2008-07-06T15:50:00.000-05:00

This is a pic of the main doors on both sides of R2's torso. The metal frames will be glued onto the face of the doors using epoxy. Then, the whole thing will recieve a good sanding with that trusty 600 grit sandpaper. After removing the dust from sanding, it will all get primed, painted and recieve a clearcoat or two.

Body Parts in Resin

2008-07-06T15:45:00.002-05:00

This is a pic of the resin body parts, (two utility arms and large data port) placed in the body for test fitting. Cleaning, sanding, priming, painting and mounting are all still needed

The Center Leg and Ankle

2008-07-06T15:23:00.004-05:00

Side view of the built center leg and ankle. (upside down) Sanding, priming and painting are all still needed.

Front view of the built center leg and ankle. (upside down)

All the pieces for the unassembled center leg and ankle.

A Few Pics of Our Advancing Left Leg

2008-07-06T15:08:00.005-05:00

After recieving the resin parts for the legs, we just sat them in place to see the end results and to test the fit of our new parts. This is the completed left leg minus sanding, cleaning and mounting the resin parts. These resin parts make a world of difference huh?

This is a pic of the completed leg minus the resin parts. In this picture, The ankle is also mounted to the leg by bolts, lockwashers and nuts as well. Dylan Stover inserted the bolts and I put on the locwashers and bolts.

This is a close up of the completed shoulder horseshoe minus the resin parts.

Random Pics of My Younglings Working On and Spending Time With R2

2008-07-06T14:49:00.009-05:00

Gabriel Plemons Sanding R2

Tristen Plemons Sanding R2's Leg

Jaden Stover (3), Tristen Plemons (11), and Gabriel Plemons (10) from left to right

Christian McDonald (10) sanding R2's Leg

Gabreil Plemons sanding R2's leg

OH LORD!!!! Gabriel has gone goofy again!!! LOL

Christian McDonald (10), Jacen Stover (7) and Dylan Stover (9) from left to right

Coin Slots

2008-07-06T14:29:00.003-05:00

These are the aluminum coin slots that we ordered from a guy named Oscar. Gabriel Plemons, 10 years old, got a weekend job working for his grandmother and saved his money and bought this part himself. It was $36.00 shipping included. This is yet another piece to R2's body, one more part down, several more to go. (Yikes...LOL)

To check out Oscar's work, Check out the direct link on the right side of the home page.

This post was Posted By: Gabriel Plemons

Resin Parts

2008-07-06T12:35:00.002-05:00

I recieved the resin parts in the mail last week that I had ordered from Keith at resin parts.com. This package included everthing we needed to complete all three legs and a few parts for the body as well. The package, shipping included, came to a total of $333.00. If you are a first time builder, resin is one of the cheapest sources for astromech parts and are very sturdy.
To check out Keith's resin parts, check the direct link for resin parts.com on the right side of the home screen.

Two Part Epoxy

2008-07-06T12:20:00.003-05:00

This is the two part epoxy we have been using on the legs, shoulder horseshoes and ankles to glue all the layers together. It sets up in an hour so it can be moved, but I suggest leaving it overnight to ensure that it is completely dry before continueing working on these parts. This epoxy is fairly inexpensive, around $4.00 a tube, and is available in faster and slower set times. I used the 1 hour set time epoxy because I needed to ensure myself the time needed to align the layers correctly before the epoxy dried. This epoxy is available at, I know for a fact, Lowes and Home Depot both but I purchased 5 or 6 packages in one trip to Home Depot and I have not needed to return to grab more.

Sandpaper For the Body

2008-07-06T12:07:00.003-05:00

I was experiencing some minor difficulties in matching the paint for the legs with the body color. I contacted Jerry Chevalier, The guy I purchased the body from, and asked him what paint he suggested I use. He informed me that the fiberglass skins for the body arrived this color and I needed to use sandpaper to sand down the skins and then paint it. This is a pic of the sandpaper we purchased and used to sand down the body, it is a 600 grit paper. In using 600 grit paper, it would not leave sanding marks in the skins but would insure the primer and paint would still stick to the body and would still have a smooth finish.

A couple completed pics

2008-06-26T20:01:00.002-05:00

After a week of off and on gluing, puttying, sanding, reputtying, resanding, priming, painting and putting in a few bolts, nuts and washers...It looks like this...

Layers of My Ankles and Horseshoes

2008-06-26T19:53:00.005-05:00

This is all four thick layers for my ankles.

This is just 4 of the 6 layers in my left shoulder horseshoe, but you get the point...LOL Make sure to use some of the putty on the layers inside the small squares here as well as the rectangle on the opposite side of the horseshoe. No layers should ever show.

You MUST apply the two coats of putty on the sides of the horseshoes and ankles as well. Just like in the leg puttying step.

Here's a Picture of me Sanding the Putty Down

2008-06-26T18:40:00.003-05:00

After I sanded the putty down to my desired smoothness, I then took a towel and dry wiped the sides of the leg to remove any dust remaining from the sanding process. This NEEDS to be done or your second layer of putty could crack, chip or flake. If this happens, it could cause undesireable outcomes when painting and after the paint dries. After I removed the dust, I then applied my second coat of putty, making certain this time to go slow and get this layer as smooth as possible. Try to smooth over any bubbles, cracks, holes and indented tracks through the putty.

After the second coat dried, I sanded once again until I reached my desired smoothness.

Right Leg

2008-06-26T18:23:00.005-05:00

Here is a picture of the right leg after appying putty on a portion of the leg. It is still pink in the photo but once dried it will be ghost white. Although the directions for the putty state that it dries in one hour, I leave it for about two hours before sanding it down. I have had issues with sanding after one hour and some of the putty underneath still being a bit pink. Then, I sand the putty with a high grit sandpaper, (220 Grit). A word of warning though, YOU DO NOT NEED TO PRESS HARD WHEN SANDING THE PUTTY, YOU WILL SAND TOO MUCH OFF AND THEN YOU WILL HAVE TO RESTART.
When sanding, I basically just placed the paper on the putty and sanded and believe me when I say this stuff sands very easily... I used VERY little pressure. But no worries, when it is solid it does not flake or chip easily.

This step must be taken with the sides of the shoulder horseshoes and ankles as well. My horseshoes consist of 6 layers each and my ankles contain 4 thick layers. See pics above...

2008-06-26T18:12:00.003-05:00

Next, I needed a way of hidding the lines on the sides where the layers meet. So I ended up inside my local Home Depot store and found this stuff in the painting section. It goes on pink and turns white when it is dry. It is also easily sanded and will allow the use of paint over it as well...Perfect.

I then purchased a 3" putty knife,(also pictured), and used it to apply the putty and spread it smooth.

The Left Leg

2008-06-18T16:43:00.005-05:00

To begin constructing the left leg, I first used a fine sandpaper, (250 Grit), and began sanding lightly to slightly roughen all surfaces that were to be glued together. I then gave each individual piece of the leg a cold bath and used soap and a soft rag on all pieces, scrubbing lightly but firmly enough to remove the machine oils and any dust from my sanding so that my glue could better complete its job. I then rinsed each piece off after washing them, dried them and allowed them to air dry further.

Next, I ran through the set up steps once again, just to be certain I had all layers in place before I glued them. Once I was certain that the leg was indeed correct, I began the long process of gluing it all together. Each leg of R2 consists of 7 layers of a thin but durable plastic, the shoulder horseshoes are also made of 7 layers as well. I used a type of PVC epoxy and began applying it to the layers. I then used several clamps to hold it together tight, just because I really didn't want to hold it for a whole hour, which is the initial set up time for the type of epoxy I decided to use. You may need to work quick depending on what type of epoxy your using because there are some epoxys that set up in as little as 5 minutes. I chose the one I used strickly because I wanted to be sure I had enough time to get the layers right before they were permanently stuck together.

After 1 hour, I removed the clamps and moved the leg to an area where it would recieve more air to dry. There I left it for the remainder of a 24 hour period.

More Pieces of the Legs

2008-06-16T17:34:00.003-05:00

Yet more pics of the disassembled legs. I definately have my work cut out for me. The white shoulder horseshoes on the upper left with the blue tape holding them together consist of 7 layers each.

Disassembled Legs

2008-06-16T17:31:00.002-05:00

This is a pic of SOME of the leg pieces I got in on the weekend. The following pics will reveal more.

Back Panel

2008-06-16T17:29:00.001-05:00

This is a picture of the back access panel open. This will allow me to gain access to the mecanicals to repair them when R2 is sick... :)

Picture of the back of my Astromech's Body

2008-06-16T17:25:00.001-05:00

Just another pic of the body. I know, it's a little blurry. I will post a clearer pic later.

The Complete Dome Swivel Unit

2008-06-16T17:21:00.001-05:00

RECAP:

1) The Lazy Susan Bearing gets mounted down to the top of the body's frame.

2) The large gear is then mounted on top of the Bearing.

3) The Dome base plate will be mounted on top of the large gear.

This is what the finished product looks like. Now all I need is the dome...Will probably have one witin the month. I will post more when I have it in hand.

Dome Base Plate

2008-06-16T17:11:00.002-05:00

This is the dome base plate. This gets mounted on the top of the large black gear to top off and complete the dome swivel unit. The dome base plates's sole purpose is to provide a place to mount battery housings, mechanics, etc... for the electronics inside the dome.

Gears for the Dome

2008-06-16T17:03:00.003-05:00

This is a pic of the rest of the set up needed for the spinning of the dome minus the actual motor and dome base plate. The white piece is the motor mount. The small black gear is attached to the motor and its teeth are interlocked with that of the large black gear after the large gear is attached on top of the 17 1/2" lazy susan bearing which will be attached on top of the body frame. When the motor begins to spin, it will turn the small gear, which will turn the large gear, which will swivel the lazy susan bearing.

Lazy Susan Bearing

2008-06-12T16:54:00.003-05:00

This is a 17 1/2" Lazy Susan Bearing that I picked up last weekend. It consists of two seperate aluminum rings attached together by a bunch of ball bearings> This is made so that either ring can spin independant from the other while attached to create one piece. This is the key part that will spin our Astromechs dome.

The Skins Wrapped Around the Frame

2008-06-12T16:49:00.003-05:00

This is the R2's body skin, (also sold to us by Jerry Chevalier), after being wrapped around and attached the the frame. :)

Thanks again Jerry!!!

Our First Astromech Frame

2008-06-12T16:40:00.006-05:00

This is our first Astromech's body frame. It was sold to us by a guy named Jerry Chevalier, a fellow member of the Astromech Builders Group and owner of the Dallas/Ft. Worth Astromech Builders Group. Me and my kids are very excited about this frame and want to thank Jerry.

From me and all my Younglings,

Thanks a Million Jerry!!!

PSI Lenses

2008-06-12T16:34:00.001-05:00

These are the PSI Lenses for R2-D2 that I created. They are made from 4 layers of durable Orthodontic plastic, all of which differ in size, thickness and transparency. These lenses are 1/8" thick and they are 1 1/2"(smaller one) and 1 3/4" (larger one) in diameter and both let light through pretty well. I'm not sure that I will use them because they are just concepts that I am currently working on, and as such, they are roughly cut and quickly done. But they are NICE and strong. If I decide to use ones like this, I will construct a new pair, perhaps maybe a pair that is cut a bit smoother.